In the "Endless Summer" there is a scene in the South Pacific where Robert August and Mike Hynsen surf out to sea on some backwash.Kane has been doing this for 4 years at Pleasure Point, He came in and you can see in the first shot, he is holding his board ready to run into the wave as it goes under him and slams into the cliff.
In the next shot, he jumps over the outbound wave and in the last shot, he is on his way out.
sometimes you can stand and ride it out, it was too fast today
There he goes!
There was some nasty shorebreak at the bottom of the stairs today, many people and boards took some lumps.
John Stone, and some other guys were directing beginners to paddle down to a cove or the Hook for safety.
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