Thursday, December 18, 2008

San Diego/Trestles Road trip 2008


nothing better than an internet connection and some monster cafes after a morning surf session




Scott created this trip, an inexpensive Sunday through Thursday road trip to LA and San Diego counties. Intentions were to see a day of the Boost Mobile Pro Contest, and see Kelly Slater win his 9th World Title.






We left on September and



surfed Newport jetties, Middle Trestles dawn patrol, San O'Nefre, Cottons, Salt Creek, Barbed Wires, Encinitas, and Malibu our last day. great trip.




Scott rented a new van and we took 3 boards, golf clubs, guitars, and two bikes.








Some pretty days at Pleasure Point


Monday, October 13, 2008

October 12 Brie up and solo in front of Santa Lucia mountains



Click on these photos to really see them.

Local color? These surf shots are from the east side of Santa Cruz, California. See the Santa Lucia mountain range at the southern end of Monterey Bay?

First page of Steinbeck's East of Eden:

"I remember that the Gabilan Mountains to the east of the valley were light gay mountains full of sun and loveliness … The Santa Lucias stood up against the sky to the west and kept the valley from the open sea and they were dark and brooding – unfriendly and dangerous." (Eden 3)





Brie is out on her own, 8 years old, she is on her Sponge Bob painted board in mid October 2008.

In this shot sequence, she paddles into a small wave and rides it into the shallows. Bet you she is ripping it up in 2 more summers, she has Kane's feel for the waves.

The first European to document the Santa Lucias was Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo in 1542 while sailing northward along the coast on a Spanish naval expedition.








Cabrillo originally named the southern portion of the range the "Sierras de San Martín", as he was passing the area on 11 November, the feast day for Saint Martin. The present name for the range was documented in 1602, when another Spanish voyage, this time lead by Sebastian Vizcaíno, tasked with completing a detailed chart of the coast. Passing by the northern portion of the range on 14 December, he named the range "Sierra de Santa Lucia" in honor of Saint Lucia.

October 12 session at Jacks: Skim and surf

Kane doing his thing on a fiberglass skimboard on a small day at Jack's

Brie unnassisted in this one on her freshly painted Spong Bob board

Monday, October 6, 2008

Shark's contest 2007

tiny day, but no fog and long sliders


Time for my heat


former ring announcet "Cal" runs the awards


Trophies ready for the award ceremony








the Scum of 71 with brie and steve





Plenty of BS between heats






plenty of sand for this one









LONGBOARD Skateboard winter of 2007

add photos

Santa Cruz sidewalk surfing


a deft touch with the orbital sander


Kane shaping a Haut 70's model we bought for 3 bucks and it has Hang Ten trucks
















New Jersey Pantheon of surf

Joe Perrone, Willy Messler and Paul Schoenberger (on his day off) at 5th street 1973

22o costume party summer of 1972


BHBP lineup for 1976



not a manly haircut
corr hall






Russell surfboard, two piece O'Neill gear, no leash, Beach Haven Coast Guard station, 1974






7' 8" Texas made Petrillo Gyro at Holyoke Jetty. Nick and Jamies on my right side, maybe 1970




St. Valentine's Massacre contest, Pleasure Point. Russell making it back to Cal, Ratboy trembling about going against Balbo in his next heat













Yee

























Former wolfman, current longboarder, perceived journalist. Augustus T. Winterbottom








3 shot sequence, surfing out to sea

In the "Endless Summer" there is a scene in the South Pacific where Robert August and Mike Hynsen surf out to sea on some backwash.

Kane has been doing this for 4 years at Pleasure Point, He came in and you can see in the first shot, he is holding his board ready to run into the wave as it goes under him and slams into the cliff.

In the next shot, he jumps over the outbound wave and in the last shot, he is on his way out.

sometimes you can stand and ride it out, it was too fast today





There he goes!
There was some nasty shorebreak at the bottom of the stairs today, many people and boards took some lumps.
John Stone, and some other guys were directing beginners to paddle down to a cove or the Hook for safety.

Surfing Out to Sea
















































































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Kane Sunday afternoon Oct 5

lighting was bad, this is the last part of a long ride he snagged from almost second peak. He was way outside and caught an overhead right, I fumbled for the camera, caught the inside section, and was off my game. Please forgive, but you catch the drift, a fun second session. We hit the hook at dawn.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Monday, September 15, 2008

Kane longboarding at 38th





fun am session in the fog between the Longboarders


Boost Mobile 2008 photos/trip









Adriano D'Souza, 6th in the world from Brasil




























he just won heat 3 on day one Trestles




Brown eyed surfing community

Click on image to enlarge

Kelp Farm Click on any of these to enlarge

after 16 push ins, the crew rests for laurels


empty afternoon at a kelpy, glassy second bowl hook






sailboats on the horizon, Brie in another one, she turned right on all of these


This is the start and the end of a ride inside on a 7' 8" Becker.
First time she wore a leash


mer man standing in kelp up to his booty


















mid september sunday surf session




As our Mexican gardener pulls weeds in the background, Brie is ready for action













Sunday, August 24, 2008

Brie's first surf contest


Minutes before our heat. This is a 7 4" beater we got free at a garage sale. I glassed on two fins and we tried it on the previous Thursday night.
It worked great and she could have taken a longer Becker or a 9 foot foamie. The other girls had foamies and leashes. Brie was old school and decided to hang with this stick and no leash.
In 14 waves, she only lost the board once, and quickly retrieved it. She paddled back out each ride and we kept throwing her into more.
a Blast.

GromFest 2008

I heard about this contest on KPIG on Friday and signed up Kane, Colton and Brie at 6:30 am on Saturday. The boys surfed at 7:15 the first heat on a dropping tide. Brie was in the push in, under 10 girls division. Six girls in the final, here are the shots.


Colton and Kane surfed first heat at 7:15am and Brie was in a 9am in the girl's under 10 push in division.


Kane and Colton were knocked out of action in this heat.


Brie had her moment in the fog.

So here is the deal, Brie on Thursday night for the first time, was pushed solo into about 20 waves at second bowl, the Hook. It was a blast, as this was a free garage sale Doug Haut that I had glassd on the two outside thruster fins.














GromFest 2008 under 10 final, girls at the Hook

Brie is closest to camera in Green, watch the girl in Yellow catch some kelp